Day 29. Mont Jacques Cartier.

I reckon we are HALF WAY through our expedition! And to mark it, today we did climb that mountain. It is apparently the point of this campsite, which I didnt know when I booked it, but the park authorities provide an old school bus which for a small fee picks you up at 10.00, grinds up an even smaller gravel road, and then leaves you with up to five hours to make your way above the treeline, up to arctic-alpine tundra, and back again.

Mont Jacques-Cartier is the second tallest peak in Quebec province at 1,268 metres. (Whatès that, about three thousand feet?) The climb only involves going up about 465 of those metres, but it was a pretty rocky slog, which was at times more like ascending a stream bed.

And the point of it all was whats at the top - if youre lucky.  Caribou.

The southernmost herd left in North America is an endangered species. In the nineteenth century, you could find the animals all the way down to Massachusetts. Now there are around 150 animals left here in Gaspesie, spread between three mountain peaks. There are very few fawns. The official guide says the caribou are 'fighting for their lives', prey for black bear and coyote. It describes their situation as 'heartbreaking'.

So it was a really special moment when we came up a ridge above the treeline, and were able to see some of the few.

A handful of adults, male and female, and then as we looked more closely, two small caribou fauns, the littlest so blond it was almost yellow, with a furry black nose, and very spindly legs. We had to hold back quietly until they had moved away from the trail ahead of us. then as we headed onto the summit, another group was grazing to our right.

Tom whispered triumphantly, 'we have succeeded in our mission!' He was as in awe as we were, and bless him, covered all that ground without complaining. Icecream on return to the RV, and another family movie night ('Ratatouille' - fab), and he was asleep within five minutes of us switching out his light.

Tomorrows mission - getting back to civilisation before the gas runs out!