In the middle of the Atlantic Ocean
Tuesday 31st July
We're sailing to a new life. On Saturday the entire family waved us goodbye from Southampton Docks: Mum and Dad, Richard, Margaret and David, Tim and Helen, all seeing us off on another American adventure. It will be very odd not seeing them for months after the lovely socialising of the past few weeks - from Dunmow to Meadow Cottage to our picnic & boules under the rainclouds in Cliveden. We're already looking forward to Thanksgiving, when the first family party arrives.
We woke again to mist and spray. I came over all energetic and dashed out to the tiny "Minnows" pool on the back deck, where I had the fantastic experience of swimming in warm water while the wind whipped my hair around, and the stream of smoke from the ship's funnel passed overhead into the wide open Atlantic.
We've also got the habit of the morning "Walkathon", along with dozens of fellow passengers. Three laps around the deck is 1.1 miles, and everyone takes it anticlockwise: walking, jogging, pushing strollers, or in Tom's case hopping and skipping and jumping along. Tom was thrilled this morning to make friends with two lady joggers. He told one "I bet I can beat you" and set off racing along side her for a stretch. Then the next time she came round, she patted him on the head and said, "let's run to the clock!" and he was delighted. It kept him going for the full stretch of our consitutional. We had given him the option of going to the kids' "Fun Zone", which is stocked with toys and staffed by friendly English nannies, but after his first hour there on Day One, he announced that he'd rather spend his time with us. At first I thought that meant no quiet time for the entire voyage, and was going to try to persuade him. But he is so thrilled with his packs of Lego, that he's spending at least an hour at a time totally absorbed in building projects, and it's lovely to have him with us.
Only Day One, Sunday, has been really sunny so far. We did a big tour of the boat, playing deck quoits and shuffle board on the top sundeck, and checking out the exciting bits like the helicopter pad and the radar station. But the two days since have started in sea frets, with a wet deck, and warmed up through the day.
A lot of the trick of the boat is finding favourite spots, and working out where the warmth & light will be at different times of day. The back decks are a great place for pulling out sun loungers, and for games. There's the "Minnows" pool, but also a playground with a kid's castle, slides and toy cars. Richard and I worked up some heat last night playing swing ball while Tom scooted around in a plastic car. And we've all had a few goes on the hopscotch squares. The Play Zone is very well organised for older kids too, with everything from organised games of tag on the back deck, to basketball tournaments in a net covered court up on the top of the boat.
I think you find what you want to find. You could spend most of the day in a bar or the casino, go see a live band after dinner, then dance in the disco till three in the morning. The quieter types can find an armchair in the library, learn to play bridge, join the needlework group, or attend lectures by the resident astronomer or military historian. The sporty types can run round the deck, go to the gym, try out all the pools, and wind down with a massage. Or like us you can patrol the boat in search of the best venues to spread out the Lego and have a decent coffee!
The food is fantastic. Richard and I have embarrassing memories of our round fat faces as we got off the QEII ten years ago, having munched our way across the Atlantic. (Hence the deck walks!) But it's all food all the time. The Kings Court cafes which stretch along most of the main deck seven have British, Italian and Asian themes, and we're working our way through them. Everyone has a table reserved in the formal restaurants for all three meals, but Richard and I are saving ours for the late supper sitting after Tom has gone to sleep. It's an extraordinary experience to dine in what feels like the Savoy, where you get on first name terms with your waiter and sommelier, and eat very good food with the Atlantic slipping by outside the picture windows in the last light of day. Even more extraordinary on the nights where everyone is self-consciously dressed up in tuxes and cocktail dresses, and smiling at each other as we enjoy the sunset. I really hope you go for it Mum and Dad - I think you'd love the experience.
Thursday 2nd August
The last afternoon is sunny and bright, and we are into warm waters, with the occasional flurry of dolphins beside us. We are very full from the final afternoon tea in the grand Queen's room - cucumber sandwiches, of course, and little fancy cakes, and scones with jam and cream. Mmmmmm. By yesterday I had eaten so much that I am embarrassed to say I had heartburn!
The weather has been patchy. Yesterday morning we got both excited and nervous to hear that we were heading for tropical storm Chantal and could expect gale force winds. I went out for a walk around the deck, and did think that Tom would have been blown off his feet! But the captain, we're told, is very risk-averse, and rather than going right through it, skirted round the fringes of the storm. This boat is also notably smoother than the QEII - you can be watching waves hitting the windows on the lower decks without feeling any motion at all beneath your feet. Even though we're in a windowless cabin, we haven't had any queasiness. Phew.
So now we are thinking about packing before we head into New York at dawn tomorrow. The last swim on the deck. The last grand meal in the Britannia restaurant. Tips for our fantastic waiters Eddie and Anthony, and the maid Pricilla who has utterly charmed Tom. I've just taken my books back to the library - managed to balance out politically by reading most of Barak Obama's "Audacity of Hope" but also the memoirs of Bush's first White House spokesman Ari Fleischer where he rails against the liberal press. Tom has been obsessed with his Lego packs - the cabin is spread with helicopter, fire truck, digger and spaceship - and has gone to sleep reading his new "Charlie and Lola" books each night.
I'm just about to reconnect with the outside world by paying to log on to QMII wireless, and checking out the front pages of the New York Times and L.A. Times. Wouldn't do to meet the head of BBC America tomorrow without the faintest clue of what's been going on...
Speak to you soon family, and miss you. Love PT xxx
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Thursday 2 August 2007
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